Island of the Gods
October 30, 2019
Bali, also known as The Island of The Gods, sits a short flight from Australia and consequently has a bit of a reputation as where bogans head for a cheap getaway. Sitting immediately next to the airport the once sleepy fishing village of Kuta, with it’s surf-able white sandy beach, became a hub for tourists wanting to indulge in sun, sea, cheap booze, and affordable accommodation. Many people don’t really venture past this growing tourist hub on the south of the island, which is a real shame because there is so much more to explore!
Known as the Island of the Gods, Bali is unique in Indonesia as a predominately Hindu island. Ancient temples spot the island, and each morning offerings are laid in the street. Balinese Hinduism differs from its ancient Indian origins, and amalgamates aspects of animism, ancestor worship, as well as its subcontinental roots.
Developed in the 1930’s by German painter and musician Walter Spies and Indonesian dancer Wayan Limbak, the recanting of the Hindu epic Ramayana is put to a hypnotic musical trance in a performance known as Kecak or Ramayana Monkey Chant. This is recreated each evening during sunset at the ancient Uluwatu temple and climaxes with the dancer playing Hanuman kicking burning embers in a trance-like state.
While it’s often that you giggle at the ridiculous influencers doing silly things for photos, it’s not hard to see why. The beauty of the island is spectacular. Beaches only accessibly by traversing dangerous cliffs, monkeys perched clandestinely in trees, lush forest vegetation, and seemingly endless tiered rice paddy fields are entrancing. Each year, several tourists perish in the attempt to get the perfect shot for the ‘gram.
Located to the north east of the island lays two active volcanos. Mount Agung, the tallest, erupted recently and is consequently off-limits to ascend. At the foothills of Mount Agung, lays one of Bali’s largest and holiest temples. With six levels, Besakih Temple, comprises of 23 individual temples. The temple is approximately 800 years old and was nearly destroyed when the lava-flow from Mount Agung’s 1963 eruption missing the temple by mere metres. I’m told that on a clear day, the mountain forms the perfect backdrop for the temple, but sadly, our experience was obscured by clouds.
Laying between two calderas, Mount Batur rises proudly above the clouds and capture the first glimmer of morning light. It can be climbed with the assistance of a guide, and is typically done so very early in the morning. While the peak can be busy, it isn’t hard to find a secluded spot to reflect.
Nestled against the eastern shore of Lake Batur and accessible only by a chartered boat is the ancient village of Trunyan. Home to the indigenous Bali Aga people, Trunyan, amongst other things known for its unique cemetery. Villagers who have passed of old age and have in their life been married are placed in a bamboo cage and left to decompose. A nearby banyan tree is said to absorb the smell of the decomposition. Often, local animals speed up the process. There are only ten plots in the cemetery, and once filled, the bones are moved to a nearby alter. Effigies and grave goods lay around the small cemetery.
It isn’t explicitly clear why the Taman Festival theme park was abandoned. Lying on the outskirts of Denpasar, the huge site sits quietly being reclaimed by the forest, save for the occasional sound of an animal or the crashing of waves at the nearby beach. Theories about the place include financial difficulties, a mysterious lightning induced fire, and supernatural beings are often given. It really doesn’t change the experience of walking through the abandoned site.
As mentioned earlier, Bali is also known as the Island of the Gods. Temples are everywhere. Some are larger and have a longer history than others. Some were buried in the jungle for hundreds of years…
Goa Gajah was rediscovered by Dutch archeologists in 1923. Its pools and fountains remained hidden metres away until 1954. The temple displays both Buddhist and Hindu deities and sits at the meeting point of two rivers.
It’s definitely fair to say that for personally, I adore monkeys. The Monkey Forest in Ubud, while quite manicured, is a place where monkeys rule. The cheeky little Balinese long-tailed monkeys live within a sanctuary containing several temples. A river runs through the forested area, and tourists are able to freely walk and interact with the monkeys. Some of these interactions are more desired than others, with some monkeys able to rifle through bags and steal hats in search of food. The monkey is tended to by the local Padangtegal Village who aim to preserve the temples spiritual sanctity, while ensuring the monkeys are looked after under the Hindu principal of Tri Hata Karana (“Three ways to reach spiritual and physical well-being”) - ensuring a harmonious relationship between humans, nature, and the Supreme Being.
Nestled alongside the ancient Taman Ayun, the Ogah Ogah museum holds a collection of Ogah Ogahs from the annual Balinese Ngrupuk festival. Becoming a feature since the 1980s, the monster like dolls are made of bamboo, wood, styrofoam, and paper. Each village builds at least one Ogah Ogah with some villages youth groups contributing more. The word “Ogah Ogah” comes from the Balinese word for “shaken”, which happens as they are carried through the streets by worshipers. The Ogah Ogahs represent negative aspects of the physical and spiritual world and offer a critique on society.
Constructed in to 10th century, Tirta Empul is famous for its springs which Balinese Hindus believe gives fresh holy water. As part of ritualistic purification, people travel far and wide to bathe in the ancient baths. There was even a kid feeding the koi his ice cream.
Ultimately, there is nothing wrong with sipping a cocktail on a beach and going for a surf. If cheap massages are your thing, then that’s great, but there is so so much more to explore!
